Out of Town — Kilkenny Medieval Mile Museum

When you're used to going to a place from time to time, you can fail to notice when they add something new, writes Brian Byrne. That's what happened to me recently in relation to Kilkenny. They've added a Medieval Mile Museum which is now the go-to starting point for any new visitor to one of Ireland's most historic cities.

Set in the building and churchyard of the 13th century St Mary's Church, the Museum was a vision of the Heritage Council and the Kilkenny local authority in 2005 that became a reality just three years ago (but I never noticed in the several times I've been there since then). It's under the management of the Kilkenny Civic Trust, originally set up to manage the Butler House and Gardens and Kilkenny Design Centre properties in the old yard opposite the city's castle.

The museum is compact, but chock full of information and visual elements from as far back as Neolithic times, long before the original monastic settlement founded by St Canice. From then, it became a Norman stronghold following the arrival of Strongbow as an invited invader to Ireland.

The curator is Grace Fegan, who came to Kilkenny in 2001 to work as an archaeologist. By her own admission, she has been 'enthralled' by the city since then. Which is very evident when she enthusiastically takes the time to provide an arriving visitor with an introductory chat.

The city's story is fascinating, especially its growth as a fortified space where the wealthy who had been gifted land in the area could live in safety and comfort, and how those same families left important legacies to the city in business, ecclesiastical, architectural and archaeological areas.

The cruciform church itself is one of the best examples of its style and time. As a museum it uses both the original building's old graces and state of the art modern technology to enable visitors gain a solid foundation for further exploration of the city's 'Medieval Mile'.

It also houses Kilkenny's civic treasures, ranging from the Liber Primus Kilkenniensis of 1231 (above) to the charter bestowed on it in 1609 by King James I to the Mace and Sword that are the ceremonial symbols of power of the city. These are kept in a 'Kilkenny Room' built beyond the church chancel (below), on an area which would have been part of the chancel up to the mid-18th century and was demolished after Cromwell forced Protestantism to Ireland.

The foundations of an original tower which was on the site of the church have been uncovered, and are visible as you walk across glass panels on the floor. High above, the roof space has been partly opened up so that the very skilful carpentry work of the original builders is on view. The oak beams were hewn from trees which had grown in the region for more than two hundred years.

Exhibits include human remains found during five years of excavations, representations of the famous Ossary high crosses, and there's a chapel within the church dedicated to the Rothe business family which offers a range of ornate memorial tablets and other artifacts that help to bring history to life.

An interactive table touch-screen allows users to visually travel through Kilkenny's time and space and see where the old is only barely hidden behind the facades of today's city streets. Stories of artifacts and people can all be listened to on simple self-tour handsets provided to visitors, activated by pointing at relevant exhibits.

A visit can be as long or as short as one likes. Tickets are valid over a number of days, so if you're in Kilkenny for a couple or three days, you can keep coming back to remind yourself of detail or add more substance to what else has been seen in the Medieval Mile.

In the days of easy and affordable international travel, we may have forgotten how much there is to see and learn about ourselves in our own country. With the changed circumstances of 2020, places like the Museum of the Medieval Mile in Kilkenny can rectify that in a most enjoyable way.

I plan to return there, probably several times, over the coming months.

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